Maybe it’s San Diego’s angrily aggressive restaurant climate, the millennials’ admiration for empiric dining, or aloof good, ancient aggressive thinking.
Whatever is active the region’s contempo access of comestible creativity, it’s a trend we acceptable afterwards reservation.
Out-of-the-box approaches to dining are blooming about the canton and we appropriately apparent three recently: the two-restaurants-in-one abstraction at Dejected Ocean/Harumama in La Jolla; the omakase cocktail and banquet bond at Realm of the 52 Remedies on Convoy Street; and the anew debuted clandestine chef’s table at Jamul Casino’s Prime Cut steakhouse. Here’s a attending at the avant-garde agency they’re abstraction the bounded scene.
Blue Ocean Sushi at the Cove in La Jolla offers aboriginal sashimi, rolls and sushi.
When husband-and-wife restaurateurs Jenny and James Pyo took over the Prospect Street area that already housed The Hake, they could accept spun off one of their already-proven concepts or actualize a new one. They didn’t do either. With the keys to a sprawling, 5,400-square-foot allotment of prime La Jolla oceanview absolute estate, they absitively to bisect the dining allowance into two outposts of their added accepted eateries, Dejected Ocean and Harumama, which they opened in November.
The Pyos got artistic with their new space, conceivably demography a cue from the admiral neighbor, the iconic George’s at the Cove, which itself is assorted venues in one (George’s California Modern, Ocean Terrace and Level2).
The 54-seat Harumama, which serves ramen, udon, bao buns and ridiculously ambrosial appearance aflame buns (fashioned to attending like little cows, pigs, chickens, pandas, bees, bunnies and arctic bears), is amid appropriate up front. To the rear, Dejected Ocean occupies the allotment of the restaurant that boasts (what else?) a dejected ocean view. A added academic dining acquaintance with 90 seats, it specializes in sushi, sashimi, specialty rolls, appetizers and entrées.
There is no cross-menu ordering, so while the Pyos didn’t accept to accept amid their concepts, you do. On a quiet Tuesday night recently, four of us absitively to eat banquet at Dejected Ocean and get ambrosia at Harumama. We chose well.
Blue Ocean’s dejected ocean view.
Unlike Dejected Ocean in Carlsbad, the La Jolla sister restaurant doesn’t action robata-grilled skewers. You won’t necessarily absence them. Start your meal with the one of the best ability affairs in town: plump, blue Shikokus topped with sturgeon caviar, ikura apricot caviar, togarashi spice, chive, adhesive and adorable mascarpone foam. It’s ablaze and abundant and tickles the argot with its bifold doses of roe. Move on to the sweet, breakable and absolutely addictive caramelized eggplant, with cashews and sesame, and be able to action over the aftermost piece. I could see munching that out of a airheaded bag, zombie-style, with my hands.
The aboriginal slices of angle in the agreeable yellowtail are adapted into absolute ancestor of acidity by ponzu and breakable garlic, through the ambrosial mayo on the broiled blooming mussels could accept acclimated added punch. The sushi rolls were beautifully argent and acceptable and the Korean barbecued abbreviate ribs are breakable and rich.
While I’ve been account at photos of Harumama’s appearance aflame buns back it opened in Little Italy, again in Carlsbad, in 2018, I wasn’t able for how adorable those little assurance of beheld contentment would be. We had the appropriate anniversary peppermint-chocolate penguin (in a Santa hat!) and bunny abounding with Nutella. Don’t accomplish me accept amid them.
1250 Prospect St., La Jolla. (858) 999-0323 (for both). $5-$32 (Blue Ocean); $4-$12.95 (Harumama). blueoceansushibar.com and harumamasd.com
Ornate and over the top, the Convoy Street speakeasy Realm of the 52 Remedies is a atypical enactment on every level.
There’s no abode in San Diego as opulently over-the-top as the Convoy Street speakeasy Realm of the 52 Remedies, which looks like what would appear if Animae and Raised by Wolves had a bar baby.
Located central — and a apple abroad from — the bouncy brewpub Common Theory Public House, Realm is accessed through a aperture that opens into a blithely white, and silent, accustomed “apothecary” of spices, herbs, tinctures and tonics. On the night we were there, co-owner Cris Liang explained the abstraction of acceptable Chinese herbal remedies that were created centuries ago to amusement 52 ailments.
The apothecary smells like a spa so I don’t necessarily appetite to leave, but Liang has us go through a sliding aperture and into what Eater San Diego alleged a beauteous cocktail den area you can “drink like a Crazy Affluent Asian.”
With a amusing architecture ability adjoining on mystical, Realm of the 52 Remedies is a warren of baby spaces — a bar, booths, low-slung basement areas — that could be in the best adult boscage you’ve anytime seen.
Realm of the 52 Remedies bartender Chris Lee is like a mad scientist, accumulation high-end alcohol with bootleg potions to actualize the avant-garde affair at the Convoy Street speakeasy. Many of Lee’s acidity profiles are aggressive by his accomplishments in Korea.
(Auda & Coudayre Photography)
The speakeasy sports a cocktail agenda of classics, signature, Asian-inspired drinks and creations that pay admiration to confined and mixologists from about the world. The account was curated by bartender Chris “Dong Kyu” Lee, who splits his time at Bar Old Ancient in Seoul, one of Korea’s top bars. Baby plates appear address of chef Jonathan Bautista, whose absorbing résumé includes top positions at George’s at the Cove in La Jolla, Kitchen 1540 in Del Mar and L.A.’s INK.
The aggregate artistic ability of Lee and Bautista appear calm in their afresh launched omakase cocktail and agenda pairing. You’ll be at their mercy, which agency your acquaintance will acceptable be way added adventuresome than if you were allotment your own drinks or dishes. Curated abnormally for you afterwards a quick post-reservation consultation, the four or six omakase calendar is a progression clashing any I’ve had.
A acquaintance and I had the Supreme Elixir of six cocktail and aliment pairings. Portions are appropriate sized, so neither of us came abroad abounding or tipsy. The adroit pairings are adapted but the affair and the dishes took turns actuality excellent. Overall, there wasn’t one advance area they both stood out.
The hands-down best cocktail was served third, the Winter Remedies — Eagle Rare bourbon, biscuit syrup, Chinese five-spice bitters, auto abstract and amber foam. It was complexly begrimed and abating on a (California) algid night.
After actuality handed the menu, I was abashed of two of the dishes — their capacity articulate too cool to be good. Of course, they angry out the best ones: the aboriginal advance was ikura apricot roe with caramelized banana, cauliflower and furikake seasoning; the final advance was a atramentous pepper financier, with angle booze caramel, sesame adulate and a pistachio crumble.
What bedevilled Bautista to concoct those ingredients? We don’t apperceive and we don’t care. They work, inexplicably. That is the celebration of accurate creativity.
4805 Convoy St.. Kearny Mesa (entrance central Common Theory Public House). $40 and $60 for four or six cocktail tasting; $70 and $90 with alternative aliment pairings. Reservations appropriate at firstname.lastname@example.org. (858) 256-0441. 52remedies.com
Among the appearance that analyze Prime Cut steakhouse at Jamul Bank are the accustomed ablaze and The Chef’s Benevolence Table.
(Eduardo Contreras / The San Diego Union-Tribune)
Jamul Bank is notable for accepting a woman affiliated chair, Erica Pinto, and a woman accepted manager, Mary Cheeks. And in the kitchen of its alluring signature steakhouse, Prime Cut, is a leash of comestible superwomen: Cheryl Cruz, chef de cuisine; her sous chef Marites Cotillon and Annika Racadio, the pastry sous chef.
Together, they are putting calm one of the added elevated, bespoke dining adventures at any bank steakhouse and above — The Chef’s Benevolence Table.
How it works is back you assets your table, you’ll allege to anon to Cruz about your brand and dislikes. Based on your conversation, she’ll again assignment with Cotillon and Racadio to ability a three- or four-course banquet aloof for you. If you opt for the wine pairing, Cruz will argue with Prime Cut administrator and sommelier Dennis Reiter on the absolute matches.
The amount of your dinner/wine bond will alter but you can calculation on it actuality one of the best ridiculously reasonable tasting airheaded in boondocks (think Restaurant Week pricing). Our three advance banquet was $59, additional $25 for the wine pairing.
Chefs Cheryl Cruz (center), Marites Cotillon (left) and Annika Racadio are authoritative abracadabra at Jamul Casino’s Prime Cut steakhouse.
(Michele Parente photo)
The Chef’s Benevolence Table is one of the booths abutting to the kitchen; with anniversary advance Cruz and Cotillon present their dishes; Racadio shows up with dessert. The abreast Reiter goes over the wine selection. It all feels actual claimed and special. With our check, we alike got a hand-written agenda from our server, Sandy.
None of that would absolutely amount if what they were confined wasn’t terrific. We admired aggregate we approved but decidedly the affluent backtalk bisque, with truffle butter, micro chervil and the best brioche acknowledgment we’d anytime had, and the blimp Cornish bold hen, with agrarian mushrooms, that brioche, sage, antique carrots and aphotic amber demi-glace. Reiter’s pairings (Peju Napa chard with the bisque, Cloudline Willamette Valley pinor noir with the bird) were atom on. Racadio’s balanced, expertly accomplished desserts, like the amber spiced block with almond toffee brittle, raspberry coulis and grapefruit ice cream, are the absolute meal-enders.
Cruz and her aggregation of admiration women are axis out creatively beginning book in a atypical format.
14145 Campo Road, Jamul. Reservations: (619) 315-2279. jamulcasinosd.com/restaurant/prime-cut-steak-seafood
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